Why do we expect “natural” cosmetic companies to perform miracles? Anyone figures that using a nail polish from an “organic”- and “non-toxic”-minded company is less harmful than a brand that does not hype being health-conscious. A comparison of nail polishes by 100% Pure Cosmetics to that of other “natural” and regular brands, like Chanel, revealed insignificant differences between their ingredients. Need some perspective on the terms “natural” and “organic” before we get started? The now phased-out toxic nail polish component, formaldehyde, is an organic compound that occurs naturally in outer space and humans.

100% Pure Cosmetics professes a “completely free of harmful toxins” product line. According to an 100% Pure Brand Ambassador, their “founder created the formula” so that “the nail polishes be the best and most natural as possible”. An examination of their clear base and top coats revealed that many of their ingredients are relatively toxic and the formulations are not original (Table 1). For additional comparison, the ingredients of selected blush-colored polishes by 100% Pure, Chanel, YSL, Ten Over Ten, and Obsessive Compulsive are quite similar (Table 2). 100% Pure promises to use only fruits, essential oils, and pure absolutes to fragrance their products, but their nail polishes contain none of those. Instead, for example, D&C Violet No. 2, a skin irritant and a possible mutagenic in chronically exposed humans, is added for color. Reflect on the amount of exposure to polish ingredients via skin contact, absorption, and inhalation that occurs from nail-related beautification: 46% of people, 91% being females ages 21 and over, have been getting their nails done for 10 or more years, at a frequency of about every 1-2 weeks. That's a significant amount of exposure to chemicals. Don't you think?

The Deal

To make nail polish, only a few conventional reagents are in the running: ingredients that make it spread, bind, and colorful. A chemical company, like TKB Trading, LLC in Oakland, Cali-FORN-i-A, offers a list of foundations for a clear coat, or luster, glamour, and matte finishes. Every cosmetics company chooses from the same list depending on their hearts desire and supplements it with their unique color mix, fragrances, and essential oils. The product development team at 100% Pure uses the “10-free” scheme for their polishes. The “10” refers to the 10 nail polish ingredients, including formaldehyde, that are vaguely deemed highly toxic to humans. The standout ingredient in their base coat is Horse Tail, their top coat boasts a “glass” finish, and have 12 and 11 listed ingredients, respectively. These components are found in nearly the same order as those listed for the lacquers from Chanel, Ten Over Ten, and Obsessive Compulsive. These factors beg the question: what makes 100% Pure so special?

Feel It

1. 100% Pure Horse Tail Base Coat ($12)

100% Pure commissioned a generic formula from chemists, added a few drops of Extract, and touts it to be your non-toxic dream. 58% of the ingredients are identical to the basic formulation of Chanel and YSL. 7 out of the twelve, including Horsetail Extract, are also equivalent to the components found in Ten Over Ten’s “The Foundation”. (Table 1)

The Boast = Equisetum arvenese = Horsetail (Extract) = ingredient #9 that’s a “healing herb”.

History & Chemistry = This is a pretty old-ass plant that is known to strengthen bone and nails. They accrue a high level of silica (Si) and have historically been used to treat inflammation and wounds. In lieu of horsetail, YSL uses silica as ingredient #11.

The Wha-Wha-What Factor = Benzophenone (BZP) = C13H10O = UV absorber. Despite it occurring naturally in foods, like breakfast cereal and wine grapes, BZP is a putative cancer causative, irritates eyes, and is in paints and insecticides. It’s used to enhance and retain the geranium- and rose-like fragrance and Violet No. 2 color in case you leave your polish out on your sun-drenched vanity. Beware: if UV does hit it, it’s chemical structure will be altered, and that new structure is known to be disruptive to estrogen receptors. Chanel used sucrose benzoate, which has no known cancer hazard, to provide UV stability.

2. 100% Pure Glass Top Coat ($12)

The only differences between this and the base coat is that it lacks the horsetail extract and uses benzophenone-1 instead of benzophenone. 63.6% of the ingredients are identical to that of Chanel’s Extreme Shine Nail Lacquer, and 72.7% are identical to Chanel’s Top Coat Reno.

The Wha-Wha-What Factor = Benzophenone-1 (BZP-1) = C13H10O3 = UV absorber. Scientific studies have shown that BZP-1 increases the proliferation of ovarian cancer cells and accelerates the growth of breast cancer cells (MCF-7 cells).

3. 100% Pure Creamy Polish in Velveteen ($12)

96.67% of the 30 listed ingredients are identical to that of Chanel, YSL, and Ten Over Ten. (Table 2)

The Wha-Wha-What Factor 1= Aluminum Powder = Al = silver flakes that impart color. This has displayed neurotoxic effects and is highly toxic to aquatic life. The longer one is exposed to this, the higher the risk of organ damage.

The Wha-Wha-What Factor 2 = Lake Pigments = These coloring agents are organic and are used by most commercial cosmetics brands. Fruits are most likely not used because they cannot achieve deep and rich pigment.

History & Chemistry = the Lakes have been around since the 1800’s and fall into the synthetic organic chemical family. They were made to mimic natural colorants. Still having trouble deciphering what is an organic compound? Example: Organic compounds are the chief component of gasoline.

Give it up already 

Nail polish is not natural and it never will be. If you want to keep it natural, then get a good buff and add horsetail infused oil to your nails as a daily ritual. Word to the “natural” cosmetics companies- stop trying to play your customers. If 100% Pure is “focused on providing healthy skin care”, then they need to readjust their microscopes. Their nail polish ingredients are not revolutionary or any more natural than that of companies like Chanel, YSL, Ten Over Ten, and Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics. To truly create and innovate healthy nail lacquer, serious O$ skills are required.

Researchers Who Researched

Asgharikhatooni A, Bani S, Hasanpoor S, Alizade SM, Javadzadeh Y (2015) The effect of equisetum arvense (horse tail) ointment on wound healing and pain intensity after episiotomy: a randomized placebo-controlled trial. Iran Red Cres. Med J. 17 (3): e25637

Grundemann C, Lengen K, Sauer B, Garcia-Kaufer M, Zehl M, Huber R (2014) Equisetum arvense (common horsetail) modulates the function of inflammatory immunocompetent cells. BMC Comp. Alt. Med. 14:283

International Agency for Research On Cancer. IARC monographs 101 Benzophenone. Lyon, France (2010).

In SJ, Kim SH, Go RE, Hwang KA, Choi KC (2015) Benzophenone-1 and nonylphenol stimulated MCF-7 breast cancer growth by regulating cell cycle and metastasis-regulated genes via an estrogen receptor alpha-dependent pathway. J. Toxicol. Environ Health 78 (8): 492-505

Nails Magazine Industry Statistics: The Big Book 2012-2013 and 2015-2016

Park MA, Hwang KA, Lee HR, Yi BR, Jeung EB, Choi KC (2013) Benzophenone-1 stimulated growth of BG-1 ovarian cancer cells by cell cycle regulation via an estrogen receptor alpha-mediated signaling pathway in cellular and xenograft mouse models. Toxicology 8 (305): 41-8

Schreurs BG and Sparks DL (2015) Dietary high cholesterol and trace metals in drinking water increase levels of ABCA1 in the rabbit hippocampus and temporal cortex. J. Alzheimer’s Dis. 49 (1): 201-209

*This is not a paid endorsement or advertisement for any brand shown.