Ad for the show. Old cars in need of the carwash. (Image: Balenciaga)

The epigenetics of Balenciaga x Demna needs a footshock to stop the MUD. I loved Balenciaga for the architecturally beautiful collections. I lost interest when Nicolas Ghesquière left. His pieces combined his imprint with the House’s history. Evolution of any House is welcome, but when the expression of the inherited genes go awry, cancers form. Dragging Cristóbal Balenciaga’s namesake through the mud must conjure up his retirement when ready-to-wear displaced haute couture. Balenciaga can no longer be seen. It is metastasized Vetements.

Angry Balenciaga models walking through a muddy stage was a ‘we can eat cake too, but in our $4000 fireman coats and dresses’ moment. It was ugly with a hint of obnoxious. From show opener Kanye West taking ‘style cues from homeless people’ to the distorted models that followed, this may be the ultimate joke. I honestly could not stop laughing and wondered how the audience held it in.

Kanye West opening the Balenciaga Summer 2023 show. He recently stated that he takes style and design inspiration from homeless people. (Image: Balenciaga)

The presentation can also be taken as a statement on fashion landfills à la McQueen. After all, red mud acts as a sustainable source of metals and growth of white mustard. Except this is the House of Cristobal. Gone are the days of Cristobal Balenciaga’s elegance when wealthy people stayed muddying up their lane. At a time of global economic depression, inflation, unemployment and post/mid-pandemic life, this is not inspiring. Even from a refugee who escaped war during his childhood.

Closing model wears a dress of deconstructed bags originally designed by Ghesquière. It is reminiscent of Ed Geins.

Demna Gvasalia, who worked under Ghesquière and co-founded Vetements, considers himself a “conceptualist” and maintains a “subversive” approach. In this house, his products are simply ugly overpriced paraphernalia. Their popularity lies with a lot of people like gamers and followers. When Alexander McQueen, the son of a cabbie, made fun of fashion and society, he kept it beautiful even when he meant it to be ugly.

Science

In neuroscience, MUD translates to methamphetamine use disorder. In meth abusers, MUD may form due to the epigenetic changes made through prolonged use despite rehabilitation attempts. The changes can have an influence on a neurostructural level- neurons and brain. Epigenetic factors, like hydroxymethalation*, influence MUD by changing elements that are heritable without changing the DNA. Importantly, epigenetics allowing the expression of genes to change and DNA to stay the same may lead to positive or negative effects on the system. In rats, a footshock stops or reduces methamphetamine use while increasing DNA hydroxymethalation, which positively governs cellular functions and gene expression. Without hydroxymethalation, cancers can form.

Bottom Line

Demna’s Vetements energy and style is disruptive at Balenciaga, but only where it is positive for monetary gain. It would be facetious for an anti-fashion designer to sell hoodies for over $1,000 if not for the congruency that the joke is on wealthy people. Or is it? According to BOF, Time named it one of 2022’s most influential companies and the brand sells $2 billion yearly.

At least when Cristobal made new fashion rules it was aesthetically pleasing. He deviated from Dior’s new look to architectural lines after the Spanish Civil War and sack dresses when 1950’s hoop skirts were the norm. The cut and shape remain, but the dreary atmosphere is a reminder of everything wrong with the world. The answer to what seems to be Demna’s call should be not to buy anything. This is not style nor is it individualism. It is fashion for the influencer nation.