Sturm Glow Cream: Flow with the Glow
Dr Barbara Sturm is set to release the Glow Cream- an amalgamation of her Glow Drops and Face Cream. The Magazine acquired the product pre-launch to test and review. This is an anomaly for our skincare department because our standard for testing takes several months to a year to accommodate seasonal shifts and thorough analysis.
Our founder and editor-in-chief, Aarti Kuver, PhD, met and spoke with Dr. Barbara Sturm about her products. (Image: AKJAM Publishing)
Speaking with Dr. Sturm in person allowed The Magazine to clarify her line of products. Our EIC first used the Glow Drops last summer after a Montauk tan. Over the Hyaluronic Acid and Face Cream, it resulted in a beautiful radiance under tinted makeup. With these conditions and considering that the Glow Cream will be used as an immediate topical aesthetic enhancer, we allowed this review to move forward after a week of use.
The Magazine accessed the Glow Cream prior to official announcement and release from the Sturm company. (Image: AKJAM Publishing)
The $cience
Instead of applying the Glow Drops on top of the Face Cream or mixing them together, this one product serves the same purpose. Using the Glow Cream as instructed on a clean face, around a 1/2 teaspoon provided a hint of sheen and major radiance with around 1 teaspoon. A closer look reveals the pearlized effect provided by additives like mica and tin. A major plus for the Glow Drops is its concentration in sweet almond oil. According to Ayurveda, this is traditionally better for Pitta skin than the sunflower seed oil in the Glow Cream.
The Glow Cream was tested for 9 days in conjunction with other products from the Sturm line that have been in continuous use. The Vitamin C serum, Super Anti-Aging Eye Cream, Hyaluronic Acid and Super Anti-Aging Neck Cream. (Image: AKJAM Publishing)
A Look at the Ingredients
The Glow Cream and Drops both have lactobacillus/Portulaca oleracea ferment extract. This is a bacterially induced purslane which protects skin through enhancing its microbiome and possibly deterring melanogenesis. Research has shown that lactobacillus ferments, which are common in food products and beer, mitigates photo-pigmentation and wrinkling. Purslane is found throughout the Sturm line including the supplements. Producing purslane through lactic acid fermentation has been shown to help inflammation of the GI lining and skin wounds. This process boosts the amount of available actives like Vitamins C, E and B2. During our discussion, Dr. Sturm recommended eating purslane and watercress if supplements with biotin are negatively affecting skin.
Polygonum bistorta root extract or snakeroot, the Chinese herb customarily used for GI conditions and wound healing, is incorporated as a possible anti-inflammatory through dermal junctions and receptors. A specialized HPLC antioxidant assay showed it to be highly antioxidant with compounds also found in strawberries, peaches, coffee and potatoes. Due to its tannins, bistorta can minimize pores through its tightening effect on skin and treat acne through anti-microbial activity.
Adding anything from the rose family to any skincare is love for Pitta skin. Rosa canina fruit extract or dog rose is in the Glow Drops and Glow Cream. The fruit contains zinc, vitamin C and E among others. In TCM it is used to remove skin pigments through tyrosinase activity.
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate acts as a preservative for The Glow Cream, Glow Drops and Face Cream. It is an antimicrobial and like putting kimchi on your face.
These products may be a pass for super duper cautious beauty connoisseurs. The Glow Cream and Drops have the in-everything-everywhere alumina, or aluminum dioxide. Though the research is mixed, aluminum has been associated with breast cancer and neurotoxicity in some cases. Increased and widespread hyper-vigilance prompted the industry to produce aluminum hydroxide-free antiperspirants. The negative effects may be due to a higher sensitivity, reduced ability to prevent accumulation, or a predisposed condition. The Face Cream does not contain alumina.
It is helpful to note that Sturm products are made in Germany where skincare regulations are more rigid than in the US. For example, the EU has recently banned retinol. With that said, a 2019 report with a focus on aluminum accumulation in German populations stresses the importance of limiting exposure to aluminum products, including food and skincare additives. According to a 2017 German analysis, the amount of bioavailable aluminum is around 0.1% after eating foods, taking medications, or using containers and utensils with aluminum. Our editor does not use the Glow Cream as a nighttime moisturizer due to the potential accumulation and the content of sunscreen materials like titanium dioxide
A Look at the Claims
“Potent anti-aging cream with an instant glow effect.” -Yes. It leaves a “pearl” glow while the face cream leaves a moisturized look. This is why the Glow Cream is like adding the drops to the cream.
“Infused with light-reflecting pearl pigments, it imparts an immediate pearlescent shimmer …and evens out irregularities.” Yes and no. The skin glows immediately. On the first 2-3 days of application, the ingredients that impart that effect also stick to dark and dry patches. Dark spots and pigmentation shine as opposed to dull dark spots. By the 9th day, the application was smoother and crystalline structures were less adherent to irregularities.
“Hyaluronic acid provides intensive moisture.” -No. The Glow Cream does not do a great job at moisturizing on its own or for makeup application. The shine components like mica, alumina and tin get into crevices. Makeup further settled into lines and dry patches, but was alleviated a bit with a few pumps of the Hyaluronic Acid Mist. Our editor found better results when used with a moisturizer underneath, but that defeats the purpose of a 2-in-1 product. Like the Face Cream, the Glow Cream has the common moisturizer ingredients octyldodecanol and shea butter. Aside from texturizing and supporting the formulation, the former is supposed to retain dermal moisture. The gathering effect may also be exacerbated by the cooler Spring week* during testing. A tester at Blue Mercury stated that it felt creamier and heavier, so we will see how this works in the Summer. By the 9th day of daytime use, light makeup application (Nars Tinted Moisturizer and Jones Road Face Pencil) was smoother but still rough around problem areas.
Bottom Line
For a more thorough analysis, this product will need extended testing into the colder months of Fall and Winter. For now, the Glow Cream coincides with the freshness and permutable weather of Spring (and possibly Summer). The team at Sturm Soho store and spa stated that it is set to release in May, while the Sturm IG announced a May 2nd release date. A small group of Blue Mercury event attendees were able to purchase on April 25, 2024.
*The Glow Cream was tested April 22, 2024-April 30, 2024 when temperatures ranged from 38-84 with wind, rain and sun. The product reported user results after 4 weeks.
