Spring murmurs transformative aspirations. Whether cleaning out closets or internal selves, surrendering nugatory things accompanies light breezes. The ability to get fresh air outdoors supplements the fresh feel of living outside of Winter blues.

But, the task of changing with the season without losing our core qualities is not so breezy. Seasonal Ayurvedic cleanses may not be suitable for all. Importantly, a drastic change is not the point of personal harmony.

Instead of a metamorphosis, an amendment is made like when the sun is undeviatingly above the Equator. Add and subtract like a pH balancing titration to retain who we really are and ultimately prevent disease and disorientation.

The most delightful and immediate method is through beauty routines.

Umm Skincare champions this odyssey with a collection that transforms the senses. They describe it as “neuro-sensory” based on ‘ancient bath ritual’ from India. While the carefully curated amalgamation of scents travels from the olfactory system to the GBA and HPA axis (gut-brain and hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal), we travel to a moment of becoming.

The Science

Opening the box from Umm Skincare reveals a relaxing aroma that delights the olfactory system. (Image: AKJAM Publishing)

A lot of people cannot afford the time for a 3-month transformation. Thirty minutes for a bath ritual transports the nervous system to a 3-month cleanse. Essential oil addition and formulation is critical here because they enter via dermal and olfactory pathways. Subtlety is the strength of these formulations. Opening the box, we are delicately enveloped with the simple yet divine scents of Umm’s products. Bath and meditative solutions are unified.

The standout ingredients are saffron and gold.

Saffron (Crocus sativus) is Ayurvedically warming. Aromatherapeutically, it can reduce winter-lingering tamasic symptoms like listlessness and anxiety. When applied dermally, saffron added to skin cream has the ability to reduce UV-induced photo damage. This is reported to a higher degree in combination with other cosmeceuticals used in Umm skincare like amla (Emblica officinalis Gaertn), grape (Vitis vinifera) and sacred or Indian lotus (Nelumbo nucifera).

Gold clearly imposes a feel-good ambience. The science in aromatherapy remains inconclusive and nonexistent, though some cosmetic brands infuse gold into essential oils to provide both an unwinding and uplifting experience. On the other hand, research on gold’s effects on skin therapy has shown to boost collagen and elasticity. A 2023 study found that lavender oil with gold nanoparticles benefits skin wounds. The gold “accelerates” wound healing and lavender prevents bacterial infections. According to Ayurveda, gold has skin healing properties when its “powdered” form (Bhasma) is mixed with particular herbs.

Steps of The Ritual

This is what our EIC does as she has been practicing Ayurvedic beauty for 17 years.

Remove Makeup

Powerhouse heritage herbs ashwaganda, turmeric, Manjistha and sandalwood begin the bathing ritual. (Image: AKJAM Publishing)

The first step in any beauty ritual is washing off cosmetics and environmental remnants. The Bar is a soap that has two formulations: Ashwagandha and Turmeric (A&T), and Manjistha and Sandalwood (M&S) ($20 each). Makeup is removed without stripping the skin of natural emollients because of the addition of goat milk and olive oil. Both are highly permeable into the dermal layers for deeper and lasting moisture.

Though the base of olive, coconut and sesame oil supports tridoshic harmony, goat milk offers a dermal microbiome-balancing effect for Vata and Pitta. With its added benefit of a comparable pH to human skin, research shows that Vata’s dry eczema and Pitta’s inflamed psoriasis is soothed with goat milk creams. The anti-inflammatory therapeutics of genes ranging from casein to lysozymes and lactoglobulins are under investigation for their role in the functional composition of goat milk in cosmetic creams.

The two soap bars are distinct in their ability to uplift mood and treat skin. (Image: AKJAM Publishing)

Ashwagandha and orange peel in the A&T bar address aging and pigmentation for both Vata and Pitta skin types. The M&S bar is exceptional in its fusion of jasmine and sandalwood. Sandalwood in the form of prized Indian sandalwood (Santalum album) creates a spiritual olfactory experience.

Each bar encourages emotional revival with a particular citrus peel- orange or tangerine. Orange peel adds a hint of scent to A&T because it is not competing with fragrance molecules of the other ingredients. The aroma of tangerine peel in the M&S is strong enough to remain distinct among the ruling jasmine and sandalwood molecular framework. Tangerine’s Vitamin A and orange’s Vitamin C help with active breakouts and discoloration, respectively.

Mini-Abhyanga

Abhyanga massages are essential to mind and body transfromation. (Image: AKJAM Publishing)

Either after a long day or on the Vernal Equinox, an abhyanga massage with herbal oils is a strategic method for mind and body renewal. Apart from the benefits of a massage, abhyanga reduces Vata anxiety (Chittodvega) by lowering cortisol levels, and Kapha depression (Kaphaja Unmada) through integrative methods. The Bath Massage Oil ($205) glimmers with healing and luxurious gold flecks and saffron strings.

Grounding sesame and soothing almond serve as principal carrier oils for Vata, Kapha and Pitta skin types. Sit with this for 15 minutes so it can nourish the skin while gently pulling out toxins and boosting the flow of physiological constituents. The warmth of saffron, sesame and gold are especially advantageous for Vata and Kapha.

Ashwagandha root is well-known in Ayurveda to improve skin tone and function, but also promotes tranquil thinking. The addition of geranium to this blend is useful for immediate and long-term skincare. Researchers found that geranium boosts circulation, improves photoprotection and reduces the breakdown of collagen and elastin via enzymatic actions.

“A mini-abhyanga focuses on one area of concern. A foot and head massage takes care of the entire system when time is short or right before bathing. ”

— Dr. Kuver, Pro-Tip

Scrub Off the Toxins, Sugar

The Body Scrub is the most divinely scented exfoliant. (Image: AKJAM Publishing)

Now it is time to open pores through exfoliation and allow the next phase of nutrients to be absorbed. The Body Scrub ($85) smells as blissful as it feels. This brown sugar-based exfoliant truly leaves skin silky so that body cream is not needed. Neem makes this perfect for the transition from Winter to Spring and also works during Summer to even out tans and soothe skin. Moroccan rose flower oil (Rosa damascena), gold, amla and bakuchiol is a magnificent union for addressing skin concerns like hydration, tone and texture. Sweet almond oil (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) and rose geranium (Pelargonium graveolens) are power players in improving the overall health of skin through deep penetration and nourishment. Aromatherapeutically, the components of this blend reduce everyday symptoms of stress and anxiety.

Wash Up

Bathing with bakuchiol increases its penetration into the dermal layers for cellular regeneration. (Image: AKJAM Publishing)

Exfoliation prepares the skin to accept the effective ingredients in the body wash. The Barrier Repair Body Wash ($65) contains key skin-supporting ingredients amla, bakuchiol and Indian sandalwood. Royal Jasmine (Jasminum grandiflorum) is added in the potent absolute form and mixed with cardamom, cinnamon bark, patchouli and tangerine peel oil. This is a captivating blend for aroma and dermal therapy because it is calming and cooling. Scientific studies show J. grandiflorum aids in arthritic conditions and burn injuries.

Apply this in circular motions to increase absorption and circulation. This application technique while wet specifically increases the permeability of bakuchiol so that it may stimulate cellular regeneration. Long after showering, bakuchiol works to increase collagen and collagen-binding fibronectin proteins.

Moisturize

The Elixir Oil and Body Crème work in conjunction to enhance synergistic effects of key ingredients. (Image: AKJAM Publishing)

The hydration effects of the scrub override this step, but post-shower conditioning allows for synergistic therapeutic herbal remedies to sink skin and mind deep. The Body Elixir Oil ($275) is particularly permeable and penetrates dermal layers for long lasting effects of antioxidant and hydration-boosting activity. Apply this immediately post-shower when skin is a little damp and its pores are open. The Elixir oil is distinct in function from the bath oil because the specific essential oil formulation is to sustain and nourish detoxed skin. Bakuchiol (Psoralea corylifolia), saffron and ashwagandha unite to heal, restore and repair through molecular cellular pathways. The scent lingers throughout the evening, thus improving sleep quality. Sweet almond oil carries bakuchi seed oil, amla and sacred lotus to generate an alluring scent.

The Elixir Oil functionally differs from the Bath Oil. The former nourishes detoxed skin while the latter detoxes dermal layers. (Image: AKJAM Publishing)

The Barrier Repair Crème ($85) is usually applied to dry skin and layered under the Elixir oil. It is not fragranced and lightly nourishes skin with the emollient trifecta of shea, goat milk and squalane. Neem, aloe leaf juice and willow bark reduce inflammation and improve skin texture. The added arginine may lighten scars and firm skin through collagen production.

Light Up

From neroli’s top note to Orchid’s base note, The Diya enchants all stages of sensory transformation. (Image: AKJAM Publishing)

Light a candle post-bath to continue the sensory experience. The Diya ($20) is a beautiful addition to the ritual and home. Neroli initiates relaxation with its distinctive citrusy sweet aroma. At the heart of this, the pretty scent of jasmine combines with the floral fragrance of ylang-ylang to enable a moment of reflection. Orchid lingers through the air to create a space of tranquility and clarity.

Sip Tea

Beautification of the skin comes also from internal treatments. Ayurvedic Tea with cooling, heating and detoxing properties support the bath ritual. (Image: AKJAM Publishing)

Transfiguration culminates with taste and internal beauty remedies. Relax with the Skin Health and Wellness Herbal Tea ($30). The tea can be personally dosed in its updated loose-leaf format. It is calming and clearing because it addresses the root cause of skin and emotional conditions: the gut-brain axis. The 15-spice blend influences skin conditions, metabolism and focus. Digestive ginger and stress-reducing ashwagandha root would be too heating for Pitta if not for the balance of cooling fennel, vanilla and saffron. The sweetness and astringency of vanilla bean, fennel seed and saffron strands are tridoshic. Cinnamon and burdock root are particularly favorable as Vata and Kapha digestive and detoxification aids. Rama tulsi is wonderful during Spring to release respiratory buildup. Goji berry supports this effect with its immune- and retinal-protective properties.