The Rhode to Dewy Skin
By Maya Vallinayagam and Aarti Kuver, PhD
Hailey Bieber has been known as the queen of dewy skin. In time for summer, she released her new skincare line, Rhode. Her new line includes 5 curated products that are suitable for all skin types. Rhode’s products include the Barrier Restore Cream, Peptide Glazing Fluid, and Peptide Lip Treatment available in 3 different flavors.
Hailey wanted her skincare line to work on sensitive skin and be affordable. At an under $30 price point, the question remains if the ingredients are as good as what Rhode promotes or a glossy air-filled lipid snack.
Ingredients, amounts and formulations make cosmeceuticals deliver or lose their claims. The Rhode skincare line offers transparency by including simplified descriptions of the full ingredients in each product. However, specific concentrations of each ingredient are not listed. The formulas were created by acclaimed skincare experts, including Bieber’s favorite vitamin C serum innovator Ron Robinson. This affords a level of credibility in whisking the line to a glazed oasis.
Key Ingredients Listed in Products:
Peptides- reduces fine lines
Niacinamide- brightens skin
Babassu- moisturizes skin as a natural source of lauric acid
Hyaluronic acid- retains moisture
The main ingredient Hailey raved about in the release of this line was her love for peptides. Peptides trigger skin cells to produce more collagen and the peptides used in her products are helpful for people with sensitive skin. The peptide in the Peptide Glazing Fluid is Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (AHP-8), also sold as Argireline. AHP-8 is supposed to create a youthful look by reducing the appearance of fine lines.
AHP-8 was created over 20 years ago by the cosmetics company Lipotec. They found that using their peptide at 2-10% provides similar results as Botox because it works by reducing muscle contraction. This mechanism helps reduce fine lines and is safer than using Botox. Unfortunately, on its own skin permeation is poor because it is molecularly heavy. This means that less than 0.25% of the total product applied reaches the layers of the skin from which fine lines emerge.
To achieve the promoted glossy fresh-faced look from within, AHP-8 is complexed with hyaluronic acid (HA). This helps with anti-aging by retaining moisture and reducing fine lines. Hyaluronic acid helps bind water to skin tissue resulting in hydrated skin. Peptide Glazing Fluid can help replenish reduced natural HA deposits because of this combination and using butylene glycol as a dissolving liquid. A study using HA and Argireline showed an increase in skin hydration and reduction in wrinkles. However, that was done using microneedling to improve product delivery to the deeper dermal layers.
Another peptide fan favorite is her lip products. The peptides in her Peptide Lip Treatment are supposed to help keep lips feeling plumped and moisturized. One of the peptides is Palmitoyl Tripeptide-I (PT-I). PT-I may be better absorbed into skin with lasers that can get rid of the top two layers of skin, which are dead anyway. It takes around 2 weeks for new skin cells to get to this layer and replace the dead cells, so microneedling peptides can help with the youthful look while you’re waiting.
Bottom Line:
Overall, the ingredients and formulation of her products seem to be beneficial for anyone’s skin type. Rhode includes many key ingredients that are essential to creating that dewy look. As Hailey would say, these products should make you feel like a glazed doughnut. For best results in achieving the glazed look, using the entire line may work best due to the complimentary actions of the ingredients.
Hailey Bieber successfully created a skincare line with affordable products without sacrificing effective formulations. The website is very easy to navigate to find descriptions for every ingredient listed in her products. This celebrity skincare line checked all the boxes for creating beneficial products and got two thumbs up from me. Everyone has a different skin type and other people might stick to products that have worked well. It is up to you if this is another celebrity skincare line fab or fail.
more to read
Researchers Who Researched:
An JI et al (2019) Anti-Wrinkle Efficacy of Cross-Linked Hyaluronic Acid-Based Microneedle Patch with Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Epidermal Growth Factor on Korean Skin. Ann. Dermatol.
Lim SH et al (2018) Molecular Weight AHP-8 Enhanced Skin Permeation of Antiwrinkle Peptides via Molecular Modification. Nat. Sci. Rep.
Resende D (2021) Usage of Synthetic Peptides in Cosmetics for Sensitive Skin. Pharmaceuticals.
Sudha PN and Rose MH (2014) Beneficial effects of hyaluronic acid. Adv. Food Nutr. Res.
explore
